EF32RL & EF32RLNP

If things are still not working, it may be best to use a process of elimination.  To test if the LED flasher is working, you just need a some wire, as well as a 12 Volt DC power source, such as a car battery or a car battery charger.

1.) Connect the black wire of the flasher  to the negative terminal of the power source (battery or charger)

2.) Connect the X prong (it is marked on the flasher) to the positive terminal of the power source

3.) Using a moistened finger, touch both the L-prong of the flasher and the terminal at the end of the black wire that is connected to the negative terminal of the power source.  The flasher should start clicking.  When you let go of the L-prong, it should stop.

4.) If you prefer visual confirmation: Using a REGULAR bulb, hold one pole of the bulb to the end of the ground wire (negative terminal of the power source), and touch the L-prong of the flasher to the other pole of the bulb.  The flasher should start clicking and the light should start flashing.

5.) Repeat step 4 with an LED bulb.  Keep in mind that the bulb itself may also care about polarity: For bulbs with a bayonet base, the main body of the bulb base should be connected to the ground-wire, and the contact-pad at the botto of the bulb should be connected to the L-prong.

If the bench test works, the flasher is OK, and the problem lies somewhere in the car's wiring, turn signal switch or LED bulbs.

Bench-Testing the Flasher

Troubleshooting

Nothing Happens, it just doesn't flash

The most common  problem encountered during installation is that the unit will simply not flash.  If you are using the EF32RL, this is  virtually always caused by reversed wiring at your flasher socket, when the vehicle was manufactured.  Please review the Polarity Test section on how to diagnose and fix this issue.  Regardless of the flasher type, if your turn-signal bulbs are wedge-type bulbs, try the following: Remove bulbs, rotate 180 degrees, re-insert into socket.

The flasher keeps clicking even with the turn-signal lever in the off-position
This is caused by a "phantom load", meaning that there is a small amount of current drawn by this phantom load even when the turn-signal switch is in the off position.  The exact path can be difficult to determine, but the root-cause is generally one of the following (in no particular order):

1.) Metal filings in the turn-signal switch (from years of wear, usually only on older vehicles)

2.) Moisture in the turn-signal switch or at the flasher socket

3.) Corroded wiring/insulation

4.) A wire connecting the L-prong to the vehicle's computer (seen regularly on certain Corvettes).

To determine if a wire connected to the vehicle's computer is the cause of this, you need to locate a wiring diagram for your vehicle.  If you cannot decipher it, please scan all pages and email them to us, we will try our best to determine if this is the case.